Look, we're not gonna pretend sustainability is some magic bullet or throw around terms like "net-zero" without showing you what that actually means. Here's the real deal on how we design buildings that work harder, last longer, and don't trash the planet in the process.
We've been doing this long enough to know that sustainable design isn't about checking boxes or slapping solar panels on everything. It's about understanding how buildings breathe, how people actually live in them, and making smart choices that pay off for decades.
We start with the envelope - insulation, air sealing, smart window placement. Passive strategies beat expensive tech every time.
Local sourcing when it makes sense, durability over trends, and yeah, we reuse whatever we can from existing structures.
Rainwater harvesting, greywater systems where they're practical, and landscaping that doesn't need constant irrigation.
We design for adaptability. What works for you now might change, so we build in flexibility without overcomplicating things.
These aren't hypotheticals or renders that'll never get built. Here's what we've actually done, with the numbers to back it up.
This 1912 Victorian semi was drafty as hell and hemorrhaging heat. The owners wanted to keep the character but couldn't afford the heating bills anymore. We did a deep energy retrofit while preserving every bit of the original facade and interior trim.
Energy Reduction
ROI Timeline
Attic Insulation
Air Changes/Hour
What We Did:
Former industrial space turned into a combo studio/residence for a ceramics artist. The challenge? Massive heating costs from 16-foot ceilings and single-pane steel windows. We had to balance daylighting needs for the studio with thermal performance.
Heating Cost Cut
Solar Array
Radiant Floor
Rainwater Storage
What We Did:
Ground-up build on a tight 18x28 foot lot. The goal was hitting Passive House standards without blowing the budget. Spoiler: we got pretty damn close. This thing uses about as much energy as a decent-sized fridge.
Annual Heating
Blower Door Test
U-0.8 Windows
Heat Recovery
What We Did:
We're not gonna bore everyone with thermal bridging calculations and PHPP modeling, but if you're the kind of person who wants to know exactly how we hit those numbers - or you've got questions about your own project - let's talk. We've got the detailed specs, energy models, and post-occupancy data for everything we do.
Honestly, if you do nothing else, seal your building envelope properly. We've seen projects where air sealing alone cut energy use by 30-40%. It's not sexy, but it works. We aim for under 1.5 ACH50 on every project, under 0.6 if we're going full Passive House.
Code minimum is... well, it's minimum. We typically go R-40 to R-60 in attics, R-30 to R-40 in walls. Yeah, it costs more upfront, but the payback is there. Plus Toronto winters aren't getting any warmer - wait, actually they are, but you know what I mean.
South-facing glass gives you free heat in winter. North-facing glass just bleeds heat. We spend a lot of time optimizing window placement - it's basically free energy if you get it right. And yeah, triple-pane is worth it in our climate, especially on north and west facades.
Contractors love oversizing HVAC equipment - "just to be safe." But oversized systems cycle too much, run inefficiently, and cost more. We do proper Manual J calculations and usually end up speccing equipment 30-40% smaller than what gets proposed. Clients are always skeptical until they see their first utility bill.
You can't just seal a building tight and call it a day - you need controlled ventilation. HRVs and ERVs recover 70-90% of the heat from exhaust air. They cost maybe $2,500-4,000 installed and pay for themselves in a few years. Plus, your indoor air quality is actually better than a leaky old house.
Solar panels look great in marketing materials, but they're honestly not always the best first move. Get your building envelope tight and your systems efficient first. Then add solar if it makes sense for your site and budget
